When I started looking for information on diapers, I ran into quite a few stale blogs (you've probably seen some of the same, like the ones with links to geocities sites). I would just scratch my head about why that happened and went on about my business of looking for information.
With my daughter turning two recently, it dawned on me that those other women went through what I was going through now with my daughter phasing out of diapers without having another one in diapers (or on the way). My sewing challenges have changed. It's not trying to sew and nurse anymore, but it's my daughter trying to "help" with sewing (of the "I push this pedal and both mom and the machine make noise" variety). I've had to find other things that I could do, be interrupted on, and not worry about the DD getting into (like the really sharp scissors and rotary cutter).
I'm still sewing diapers and I'm now offering them on etsy (as Ruff and Tumble), so I'm still going to add to the information. I've just decided that I'd write (brag, whatever) about other projects that I'm working on. No, I can't knit (in spite of the knit soaker links that I've added).
Tuesday
Monday
Lastin Test - Lastin -vs- Biokleen Bac Out
Some time ago there was a post on one of the diaper sewing lists about Lastin in diapers disintegrating. The diapers weren't really subjected to anything out of the ordinary, unless you want to count Borax and getting a squirt of Bac Out.
It's been a while, but I didn't have and Lastin on hand to test anything that crossed my mind. Now that I have some, I decided to soak a scrap of Lastin in Bac Out to see if the citrus oils might have an impact on the Lastin like I've seen happen (with other citrus products) on certain plastics. Well, I haven't been scientific with my testing (don't ask me how many days the Lastin has been soaking in a closed container other than it's been well over a week), but the Lastin doesn't seem to be showing any damage from the Bac Out. I've pulled the Lastin out and stretched it out a few times, but there doesn't seem to be any change in how it stretches nor do I see any weak spots. Not conclusive, but a really good sign.
This makes me feel a bit better about switching over to Lastin after having loads of fun picking out shot elastic from one of my daughter's diapers. Most of my diapers were made with bulk poly knit elastic from Jo Ann's, but this one was made with cotton woven swimwear elastic. I think the way the cotton aged caused the damage to the elastic strands. Just a guess, but it's not something that I care to repeat.
It's been a while, but I didn't have and Lastin on hand to test anything that crossed my mind. Now that I have some, I decided to soak a scrap of Lastin in Bac Out to see if the citrus oils might have an impact on the Lastin like I've seen happen (with other citrus products) on certain plastics. Well, I haven't been scientific with my testing (don't ask me how many days the Lastin has been soaking in a closed container other than it's been well over a week), but the Lastin doesn't seem to be showing any damage from the Bac Out. I've pulled the Lastin out and stretched it out a few times, but there doesn't seem to be any change in how it stretches nor do I see any weak spots. Not conclusive, but a really good sign.
This makes me feel a bit better about switching over to Lastin after having loads of fun picking out shot elastic from one of my daughter's diapers. Most of my diapers were made with bulk poly knit elastic from Jo Ann's, but this one was made with cotton woven swimwear elastic. I think the way the cotton aged caused the damage to the elastic strands. Just a guess, but it's not something that I care to repeat.
Friday
New Serger
I've been arguing with my old White serger (it loves to skip stitches on the left needle), so I decided that it was time for another machine before I send the White to the shop for repairs (or replacement). I managed to find an even older Bernina Bernette MO-335 on Craigslist that had hardly been used (the prior owners were intimidated by it) and jumped on it. Now that I have a reliable serger (the Bernette is this side of an industrial machine), I actually need to learn how to serge something other than a straight line.
There's some really nice books available, but it's nice to find some generic information is still available through the Extension Service:
Serger Basics - Level 1 (Kentucky Extension Service)
Sewing with Serger Basics (Utah Extension Service)
Bernina Workbooks - Even though they're for Bernina sergers, There are techniques that can be used on most machines
Bernina Serger Workbook 2
Mastering Your Bernina
There's some really nice books available, but it's nice to find some generic information is still available through the Extension Service:
Serger Basics - Level 1 (Kentucky Extension Service)
Sewing with Serger Basics (Utah Extension Service)
Bernina Workbooks - Even though they're for Bernina sergers, There are techniques that can be used on most machines
Bernina Serger Workbook 2
Mastering Your Bernina
Wednesday
Skipped Stitches and Bird's Nests
If you've experienced either of these, well, you have my sympathies. They were both the source of many colorful words - mostly since they happened with a new machine.
When sewing PUL, I tried several different needles to alleviate the skipped stitches. Ball-point needles are a must. I'd get skipped stitches with an 80/12 needle, but when I switched to a 70/10, life was good.
For a little more information on proper needle choice - Threads Magazine has a few good articles:
Threads Magazine - Machine Needle Know-How
Threads Magazine - Sewing Machine Needles - An Overview
Bird's Nests were another issue. These are the loops of thread that build up underneath the fabric and just jam up the works. Typically, a bobbin that's popped out of place is the culprit. What happened with my new machine was that the needle thread was slipping off of the take-up lever (the arm that goes up and down along with the needle). This wasn't an issue with my older machines because the lever was out in the open. The new machine has the lever hidden behind the machine's plastic cover & it's just a hook - easy to thread, but nothing to hold the thread in place.
When sewing PUL, I tried several different needles to alleviate the skipped stitches. Ball-point needles are a must. I'd get skipped stitches with an 80/12 needle, but when I switched to a 70/10, life was good.
For a little more information on proper needle choice - Threads Magazine has a few good articles:
Threads Magazine - Machine Needle Know-How
Threads Magazine - Sewing Machine Needles - An Overview
Bird's Nests were another issue. These are the loops of thread that build up underneath the fabric and just jam up the works. Typically, a bobbin that's popped out of place is the culprit. What happened with my new machine was that the needle thread was slipping off of the take-up lever (the arm that goes up and down along with the needle). This wasn't an issue with my older machines because the lever was out in the open. The new machine has the lever hidden behind the machine's plastic cover & it's just a hook - easy to thread, but nothing to hold the thread in place.
Affordable One-Size Diapers (Without Sewing!)
To be frank, the start-up costs of cloth diapering with the big, name-brand, fancy-schmancy diapers scared me. Come on, it may save me money in the long run, but I can't afford the start-up costs *now*. Even with hand-me-downs (including a crib) and gifts, baby gear just about tapped me out.
I bought one of the one-size diapers from Assunta Store (the owner operates a coop called NotionSupply on Yahoo Groups) when she was testing them out. It's my favorite purchased diaper. I also bought a cover that I used with pre-folds that worked wonderfully until my DD outgrew the prefolds. The pocket diapers may run a little small, but my DD's about 30 pounds now and there's still room for her.
The price is the thing - the Pockets are currently priced at about $7.50 with two inserts & shipping's free with the purchase of 12 diapers (using a code at check-out). The Sized diaper covers are about $4 each.
Yes, the diapers are made in China and they are being shipped from China. On the other hand, the store helps support abandoned babies in China.
Tuesday
Good Intentions
Leave it to my dad to let it spill. I made some diaps for my nephew. They were cute. They were appreciated. They really aren't getting used. Ugh. Apparently they aren't absorbent enough for my nephew's fire hose. I was out of bamboo, so I had to resort to birdseye from Joann (and I'm not that thrilled with how they turned out). That, and I think that the diaps were "nice" ones with microchamois instead of suedecloth as the inner layer. Sigh... I know they were appreciated, but I really hate hearing things in a round-about fashion about something that I might be able to fix.
Sunday
FOE - The Acronym for Fold-Over Elastic is Quite Appropriate
FOE and I don't get along. Have I mentioned this before? I'm a very dominate lefty, so trying to stretch the elastic and get it to hold in place is just plain *hard*. I've been making snapping Tinkle Time Trainers for my DD, so I'm making myself learn how to use FOE.
What I've learned:
1) baste the layers together (zig-zag the edges) to get the diaper sandwich to act as one piece (just one less thing to fight with).
2) Pin. Yes, Pin. It made things much easier to pin the FOE in place so I knew how much I needed to stretch the FOE as well as to keep the fabric going into the FOE at the right depth (this goes along with being a dominate lefty).
3) To make a FOE pocket, the liner gets cased elastic, just like a "regular" pocket diaper. When sewing the FOE, have the inside of the diaper up (PUL to the feed dogs). Pin the FOE at the edges of the casing. When sewing the FOE, sew all of the layers together until the pocket opening. At the pocket opening, pull the casing away from the FOE and sew the FOE to the PUL only. Ideally, the edges of the casing (where the elastic is tacked down) should be under the FOE. For some reason, pattern instructions make this really hard to understand (if it's even described). I'll try to take some photos the next time I sew up some more trainers.
What I've learned:
1) baste the layers together (zig-zag the edges) to get the diaper sandwich to act as one piece (just one less thing to fight with).
2) Pin. Yes, Pin. It made things much easier to pin the FOE in place so I knew how much I needed to stretch the FOE as well as to keep the fabric going into the FOE at the right depth (this goes along with being a dominate lefty).
3) To make a FOE pocket, the liner gets cased elastic, just like a "regular" pocket diaper. When sewing the FOE, have the inside of the diaper up (PUL to the feed dogs). Pin the FOE at the edges of the casing. When sewing the FOE, sew all of the layers together until the pocket opening. At the pocket opening, pull the casing away from the FOE and sew the FOE to the PUL only. Ideally, the edges of the casing (where the elastic is tacked down) should be under the FOE. For some reason, pattern instructions make this really hard to understand (if it's even described). I'll try to take some photos the next time I sew up some more trainers.
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